LED Lighting Review

LED Lighting is coming to our layouts and homes sooner then you think.   The savings will be phenomenal.   As long as the electric aka utility companies don’t jack up the cost to us.     They will.    They have to operate on X amount of dollars and the more resourceful we become the higher the cost of electricity.     I promise!

Never again…well… read on.     Never again will you have burnt out light bulbs on your layout.   So goes the propaganda.    Oh, you can blow out the LED’s,  but please don’t ask me how?   Embarrassing!

That nosy heckler in the back row is at it again.   What?  You keep this up and it will be your turn to order pizza and pay for it…for all of us.   Now what do you want?    You want to know how I did it? How I did what?  Oh, blew out the LED.  Sheez, can’t get away with anything.

OK!  To much voltage and no resistor in line.    Bink and it was gone.   Now, I’ve seen some of these recover but with lesser light emitted.   I have no idea why.

It’s real easy to blow out a incandescent light bulb.   I’ve done that on  a number of occasions and it was the easiest thing I’ve ever done. You know, the grain of rice or wheat incandescent conventional light bulbs.   I knocked out half a city of 1.5 volt light bulbs …toast ….history!    It was pretty for about half a second and with a flash it was over and darkness ensued.

Recommending you always stay with the 12-14 &/or 16 volt light bulbs for your buildings.   Leave the 1.5 volt bulbs alone.  Those are leaveerites (leave them right there).  Well, I know that won’t happen so do  be sure you know what you are doing.      You will need to know which resistor to put in line, what power source to use and how to hard wire-in the light bulbs.    I don’t recommend in series or one resistor fits all.   One goes out  so will the others.

Resistor:   Here is what I’ve been looking for however, I had to visit the doll house website to find my answer. Resistors required for 1.5 volt bulbs and  a 12 – 16 volt AC power source.    http://cir-kitconcepts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=180

It’s Story Time:   Experience has taught me that LED’s have a weak point.   We were over at The  Gulf & Pacific Railroad, John A’s HO Layout and he discovered an LED that wasn’t working in one of his building signs.   We were all responding in stereo,  surprised and asking, “Burned out…how”?     It  had us all wondering why?    Why would it work for 2 or 3 years and then quit?   End of story but not this presentation.

There is a variety of vendors and suppliers available to order your lighting needs.   I cover these in three other posts here on BarstowRick.com.    Here’s one more.

Vendors for Electrical Goodies:   One, I would highly recommend and I’ve ordered  from is: WeHonest.   He doesn’t sell used items they are brand new out of the box.     Yes, out of China and I’ve been very satisfied with his service and products.   Prompt delivery and it comes as described.   Worth paying the shipping for.   You will see some of his advertisements in the small boxes that jump up here from time to time.


Photo’s courtesy of WeHonest.

Most recent purchase, is a number of N Scale   light standards.      Another item or items I ordered are the single LED’s with the resistor already in line, installed and set for 12v-16v power supply.   See pictures above.  Tested and works perfectly.  Perfect for us Toy Train Enthusiast and Model Railroaders.

News update:    I haven’t been able to find him of late.    Not sure what’ up.     However, there are other’s you can check into and see what you can find.    An Oogle Google, Yahoo, or Bing search will usually yield a number of resources available.     Edited add on 2-7-2016 rh.

With that said, check out what you can find from your LHS.   Always support your LHS and give them the first opportunity to fill your order.    That doesn’t work then resort to  E-bay or Amazon.        Once back home with the light bulbs or LED’s you need then let’s get your layout lighted up.

The following link…well…I’ll let you decide if this is over your head.   Installing 1.5 volt bulbs:  http://www.awrr.com/1point5voltPS.html

More to come.


Revised 2-7-2016 rh.

DCC, DPDT, Cab A & B, 18 & 20 Gauge Wire.

Headline– Read All About It:   DCC Comes to Big Bear Country!   Surprised the…heck…out of me.   I couldn’t believe it,   it works on my layout!   Story to follow.

This should of been headline news in Big Bear Country.   Only in certain circles.  Not sure our news media up here would know real news if they witnessed it.    Now the Bear News.

DCC, DPDT, Cab A & Cab B, 18 & 20 Gauge Wire Drops and a 14 Gauge Bus.   DCC works on my N Scale layout!

It’s November 2, 2009.   History now but read on.

It all started out relatively quiet and peaceful. “Big Bear Lake, where the motor boats a putt-in…”,  lyrics borrowed from Mel Blank.

Terry a mountain man at heart, drove the circuitous mountain roads to arrive at my home in  Big Bear Lake, Ca.,  with his Digitrax, Zephyr, Digital Command Control and a handful of DCC locomotives.

I could not believe my eyes and ears with what I saw and heard… on my layout! What I don’t understand is why nothing has been said?   Or why someone else hasn’t reported this.  Unless I missed it somewhere…well…read on. It’s like it’s some big secret and we can’t tell anybody.   So, let’s keep this between us.   Shhhh!

Wow, I think I kept saying that all day long, chuckling out loud.

Now, before I go and get all excited, like I’m not already. Here’s how I installed my electrical system.

This may be important to some of you.  Real important and good news.  Bear with me, as I need to set this up for you.

I wired in using DPDT toggle switches (Double Pole, Double Throw,  Center off electrical toggle switches), to route Analog DC, Cab A or Cab B to specific blocks in order  to operate more then one train at a time. Old school…for sure.  Upside it works decently and is loads of FUN!

Keep in mind there is no common wire or common rail applications on my layout.  I have no love lost for the Dance Of The Common! I wouldn’t touch that way and means of wiring… with a six inch pencil let alone a ten foot pole.  I wouldn’t recommend you do so.

I rescued my dad’s layout thanks to the help of Tom, my brother-in-law.   The story is here under “Rick’s Vent, Lament & Lessons Learned”.   Seeing that I was remodeling it…totally! I decided to wire in my layout  differently then I had in the past.

While talking to Bob E. on the phone, discussing how he wired in his DCC layout the light bulb came on over me head.   You can find links to his website here on BarstowRick.com.

In anticipation of the possibility of changing over to DCC, I used a household, 14 gauge wire as a bus line that serves all my control panels…running from both Analog DC  transformers, Cab A and Cab B, around to the backside of each control panel. From the bus to the control panel, I use 18 gauge wire to feed and thread all the DPDT’s together. All my wire drops (the ones soldered to the track) are 20 or 22 gauge. The “Home Runs” aka feeder wires, are 20 gauge for runs shorter then 3 feet.  For runs longer then 3 feet, I use 18 gauge wire.

Not that this matters a whole lot…but…I use solid wire and am not a great fan of braided wire.   To many little ticklers that can reach out and cause a short.

The weakest point on any train layout is the rail joiners.   Power loose, line drop and oxidation can affect the performance of your train equipment.    To remedy that situation, I solder in the rail joiners and  every wire splice in order to reduce the chance of electrical chatter between connections and power drops in the electrical current aka line drop due to resistance.      All wire joints or splices are soldered. All of the rail joiners aka fish plates.   This is for free but calling them fish plates  isn’t correct, as there is a big difference between the two and we can talk more about this later.   All rail joiners are soldered including the Kato Unitrack, sectional track. Do be careful you can melt the plastic ties and road bed.   Don’t ask me how I know!

There is a difference here on how I wired my layout compared to the directions you will read in most of the electrical DCC – How To wiring books.  They suggest wire drops in place, every three feet.  To install, below the sub-roadbed A Bus, IE., Two wires, household sized wires, 14 gauge to run around underneath the track and sub-roadbed, to feed the wire drops.   Not a bad idea if you are just getting started.

On my layout,   my wire drops are centered in the middle of the track blocks that are 6 to 9 foot long and some are 12 footers with two sets of wire drops.   Each block is isolated from the other and has it’s own set of wires, home runs, that go from a DPDT electrical toggle switch to the wire drops attached to the rails to a single isolated block.

Now let me ask you, reflecting on how I wired in my layout.  Is this the way we’ve been instructed to wire-in DCC? And everyone responded… NO!  You are so right!   Not at all.   A+ for everyone tuned in.   You were paying attention.   Alright!

Please, feel free to re-read the above as it is important you get this. DCC, Analog DC, DPDT,  18 &  20 gauge wire drops, 14 gauge bus, Cab A or Cab B and it all operates flawlessly….on my layout.

Incidentally there are now three layouts in the valley with DCC and Steve’s has his wired darn near the same as mine.   Only his wiring is by far cleaner and easier on the eye… nice!  He has the same gauge wire as mine and the only thing missing is the heavy duty 14 gauge wire.


DCC comes to my layout.   Can we call this Rick’s Story Time?  Oh no not another story time!   You’ll like it or not!  Grin.

I figured that once Terry, got his DCC unit hooked up it would all be over but the crying. It’s what happens next that blows my mind and gave me a freeze over brain fart, all but blowing a brain cork and leaving me… well…numb! Ok, so maybe that didn’t happen…but… I had to step out and take a nitro…darn angina…won’t leave a guy alone when he is having fun.

First things first.   I disconnected the two leads from the Analog Cab B, power supply.  Terry takes the two leads and hooks them up to his Digitrax DCC power supply.   I flip all the toggles on the mainline over to Cab B.  I wouldn’t miss one would I?   A quick glance confirms  they’ve been thrown.

Terry rails a motor aka diesel engine, in an area where I don’t have any wire drops, yet (still under construction), on a block longer then 12 feet at about 9 feet from a feeder wire.  Did that raise any eyebrows out there?    It is a future block, still connected to an older block, as I haven’t cut in the gaps or soldered in the wire drops…yet.  At a point furthest from the feeder wires. The motor starts-up with a diesel whine, the pop off valve on the air releases, lights come on dim and then onto high, the whine of the motor picks-up, two short’s on the horn and the diesel begins to move…what? What? WHAT?  Unbelievable!   WOW!   On my layout?

Locomotive still moving and bell ringing as it passes the station, pictured in the header! It continues out and onto the main, around the layout with one…oop’s.    Steve, having joined us for Terry’s Demo., as I’m trying to find a short or whatever it is that’s wrong.  You see, the night before, I had to solder a rail joiner as it had oxidized or worked itself loose. Anyway, it wasn’t allowing current through. We can talk more about this issue later.  Back to the same spot from the night before. I rechecked the solder joint with a meter and I couldn’t find any current…before or after. There wasn’t any juice in that block. Steve questioning, I wonder if we have a switch off? I look down at the control panel and with a sheepish grin on my face, flip the toggle switch over to cab B. That did it! Power up and available. We were off and running.    What happened?   I rerouted the train down a siding I hadn’t planned on using.   Oop’s.

Now get this, we finished out the day with no further problems or interruptions.  We operated two  different locomotives and two diesel engines simultaneously operating with  the sound on.   With no problems and no voltage drops.   Unbelievable!    Wow!   The expletive for the day.

Terry, stood there with an, “I told you so”, look on his face and twinkle in his eye. I could of swore, a whole lot of pride!

End of this story for this chapter.  Just not the conclusion.


Disclaimer: Only…If, your layout is wired, similarly to mine.  

Why has this been kept such a secret?   Allow me to explain.   The electrical engineers and big wigs… have been and still are touting that you need a 14 gauge, wire bus (not Greyhound) and the wire drops need to be every three feet.  The idea is to provide as many amps to the rail or track as is possible without a lot of line drop aka lose of current due to resistance in the wire itself.  So the sound units will have ample current available to run them.   According to what I’ve read, they’ve …hint …hint…and then  implied,  and said out right  it shouldn’t (should not), won’t work on my layout.

Good news is it does!!!!!!!!!!

Review:  If you didn’t pick up on this at first.   My blocks on the mainline track are as long as   9 to 12 feet in length and my wire drops are centered with the closest drops being 4 to 6 feet apart.    I use 20 gauge wire on 3 to 4 foot home runs from the electrical toggles to the track. Any home run or wire run over 6 feet long has 18 gauge wire. The only 14 gauge wire on the layout is the bus wires cab A and cab B,  from the transformers to the back side of 6 control panels.


If you are new to DCC. I wouldn’t advise operating DCC with Analog DC simultaneously.   DCC is AC aka Alternating Current on the track.   Analog DC is Direct Current on the track.   You don’t want to mix the two.   Unless you like sparks and lot’s of smoke.    Should the locomotive cross over the isolation gaps.  It can short out the works and cause damage to both power supplies, command station, decoder and what we used to call transformers.  It takes some serious discipline and a dispatcher that is closely watching the trains and the control panels.

You can ask me how I know.   And my heckler sits silent.   Ok, for the rest of you with curiosity written all over your faces.   I have!   Yes, I’ve operated trains on my layout,  running Analog DC and DCC simultaneously.  Just not on the same track or block.    I will isolate the main from the rest of the layout and run trains  on DCC.  Steve will operate a train out of the hidden staging yard and up the main and back again.   While,  l switch the yard making up a train operating on Analog DC.    I don’t recommend you do that at least not right away.

Oh and you can smoke a decoder but don’t ask me how I know.,  I said not grinning.    I wonder who put that smoke generator in that diesel?

Keep in mind there are several ways you can wire in DCC.   More on this later.

Do you think it’s time to make it happen on your layout?

***I may have already said this earlier in a previous posting.    If I was just getting started in the hobby I would wire in DCC and never look back***.

Today, I have what some would call a cut in switch.   It’s a DPDT, center off, electrical toggle switch wired in with the Analog Cab B to one side of it and DCC to the other side.   With the flip of the electrical toggle switch, I can change up from Analog DC-Cab B to DCC.    Anything set to Cab B on the control panels is now DCC.   It works and works well!

The heckler in the back…again?   Why would I wire it that way?  Is that what you asked?  OK!   I have way to many analog DC locomotives and diesel units.    They will never see a DCC decoder.   Not on my fixed income.   So, it’s important I keep Analog DC wired in, as is.  If for no other reason then  my own enjoyment.

Operator Error and More:   I use MRC Prodigy to operate my DCC Decoder installed locomotives and motors. There are features about it I like but the biggest downfall isn’t with MRC. It’s with me, I forgot to write down the address or I.D. numbers for the locomotives. Typically, I use the number on the locomotive but what do you do if it doesn’t have a number or you have two locomotives with numbers alike. I will assign them different numbers and follow-up by writing the numbers down in a  log.  Along with a brief description of the locomotive. Nothing like an active or accurate log.  And, before I forget.   The fuel tank for diesels and the tender for stoves is a great place to locate the address or coded number for the locomotive.

I’ve added a post on how I wire in DPDT, Cab A & B Analog DC wiring for two train operations see:    http://www.barstowrick.com/category/block-cab-a-b-wiring/

Well, that should just about wrap it up…for now.   Stay tuned more to come.  

DCC works well, very well on my layout!

Come Join Us On TrainBoard.com.    Visitors are always welcome.  You may need to  register in order to participate.  But not here COL.   Well, I need to correct that last statement.  Here,  you can read and watch videos for free.    Participate here?   Yes you can leave a comment or contact us with an idea.   However, this is not a discussion board and we encourage you to take that to TrainBoard.com.     This is not a paid for political announcement but I do approve it’s contents.       Just a testimonial.

Have fun!


If you look long enough, you are bound to find a prototype for what you desire to model on your layout.

***This has been edited from the original manuscript for your advisement and reading pleasure.   And, I’m still saying WOW!***

And now the news, with the news and all about the news…

News update:   I’ve heard rumor that another layout in Bear Valley Country may get the DCC treatment.

News update:   Also, watch for Blue Tooth and Wifi,  to move into the market.   More follow up news…later.

Stay tuned more to come.


Realistic Rock Scenes

Realistic Rock Scenes – How To

If you haven’t already you need to check out Bragdon’s Geodesic Foam- Rock Formations.

Then hurry back as there is more tips and ideas to share.

Let’s check in on Dave Frary and see how he paints rock faces to make his scenery look realistic.

Painting Rocks with Dave Frary

In this 15 minute video I demonstrate how to mount foam and plaster rocks into your scenery using Sculptamold. Then I show you how I paint rocks using four basic colors to get realistic results. I finish the rocks by dry brushing to bring out all the detail. This clip is a short segment from my DVD Building Landforms parts 1 & 2. These and all my DVD’s are available at http://www.mrscenery.com Thanks for watching, David Frary.

One more stop to see what Ross is up to.   

Painting Rock Faces Using Acrylic Washes

<a href="/channel/UC1cPwne1sEA45cm1iIg9i7A" class=" yt-uix-sessionlink spf-link g-hovercard" data-name="" data-ytid="UC1cPwne1sEA45cm1iIg9i7A" data-sessionlink="ei=0FlxVKmmBoXX-APqnIHwBg">RMS55</a>

Uploaded on Jan 31, 2008  Ross'”Detail Series” #3 demonstrating how to spray paint realistic rock faces on hills and mountains using acrylic paint washes. The process is easy and I hope it inspires you to try it on your train layout.

Thanks for tuning in, Ross.

It takes practice to turn out a fine master piece and there again sometimes being sloppy is the perfect answer.

Have fun!



Photography-Back To Basics

Photography is one of my other passions aka hobby.    Hand me my old Argus,  Canon and more recently my Minolta, a roll of  35 mm film and I’m off and running,

Today’s digital camera’s leave much to be desired and in some cases take way to long to shoot a picture.   Kind of a step backwards in time to the old box camera’s.   I like to be able to set up the camera manually, aim and shoot moving on to the next shot.

I will let the two characters who make the next video  presentations introduce themselves.    I believe you will find, lot’s of good ideas, tips and How To’s.

Published on Aug 16, 2014

In this first video of a series on model railroad photography
we discuss how getting back to basics can immediately improve
your photos.

That’s the basics and should have you headed in the right direction.    But, even Joey can shot a bad picture or video.    True!     Just don’t be embarrassed when it happens to you.    Get back to the camera and shoot it using other settings until you find something that works.  RickH.

How To Do Model Railroad Photography – (Part 2) Image Stacking for Maximum Sharpness

Thanks for watching!

Now that we know Joey’s secrets there’s no reason why we can’t do the same.

It’s easier then you thought…right?

The use of a camera can be one of the most important tools you can use.   Yep, I’m off to buy me a camera.   Now which one?     Ok, so that didn’t happen but give me time…it could.

The car must have heard I had some extra cash and decided it wanted me to spend it ALL on it.    Never mind the washing machine is failing and the windows the county boys put in are leaking every time it rains.     So much for the camera.   I said with an audible sigh  and what I hope is  a reassuring grin.    Well, I hope that’s what shows up on my face.

For more photographic advice:   http://www.barstowrick.com/photography-model-railroading/


Simulated Cab Ride Orlando N-trak Club

Welcome, to the Orlando N-trak Club, Orland, Florida.   Enjoy a  simulated Cab Ride on the point of an Amtrak Passenger Train.

Photography is one of the tools we modelers use to help us see our layouts for what they really are.    Here in the next two videos from the perspective of riding in the front locomotive.   You will see how they built their bench-work, sub-roadbed, track and scenery.  You’ll see some wiring and CCTV (Close Circut TV) in order to monitor the location of trains or view the points on the switches.    Sound affects have been added as well.   Sit back, grab a favorite beverage and enjoy the next two videos.

Who knows?   You might see something that impresses you.   I’d be surprised it you don’t get some sort of an idea or two.

AWESOME Model Train Ride part 1

AWESOME Model Train Ride part 2

We hope you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching WP.

You may have noted a clicking sound.   The sound of electrical toggle switches being thrown to clear the train through various blocks.    Now ladies and gentleman there are yard limits, with slow speed restrictions to be observed and it seemed to me we hot shotted through a few yards.   No I’m not picking on them…YET!   I hope the dispatcher or railroad officials wasn’t watching.   Grin!

One thing you can’t hide from the camera is the quality of track work.    At times reminding me of the prototype or 1X1 foot scale.   Got bumpy out there.

I agree it’s to big for most home layouts but don’t let that stop you.

Thanks Orlando, for the fun.


Railroad Signals-How To Read

Track side is a great place to learn how the big fella’s operate and move the 1:1 foot scale tains.    When I have time and manage  to get  track side I find the various signalling devices and light arrangements fascinating.     What does it all mean?     Can I predict the arrival of the next train or perhaps a train meet.     I ended up purchasing various railroad rule books to find out the meaning of the signals and the various light arrangements.

As a youngster, what proved to be my biggest boon was my family of Rails and much of what they taught me.   Then when granddad passed away,  my uncle presented me with his Santa Fe and Southern Pacific  Rule Books.   Needless to say, I was touched by such and appreciated what would turn out to be the last gift he ever gave me.

Later in years I would find the Rule book very helpful as I set track side while listening to  a scanner.    I would listen to the chatter between the crews and the dispatcher.

Let’s see does that make me a “RailFan” or as the “Rails” call us “Foamers”.     As in getting overly excited at the sound of a train approaching and foaming at the mouth with said excitement.     Darn Alka Seltzer always did have a way of backing up on me.     Yep, that would make me one of those types.

In my not so humble opinion these videos are worth the time spent to watch them.   The first two videos you can see here are part 1 and part 2.     I believe they are linked in succession so stay tuned and you will find  yourself watching parts 3 and 4.


How to read Railroad Signals

Learn from a Canadian Conductor how to read the signals, track side.

Railroad Signals, reading and meanings, part 1: The basic three light system

Published on Apr 29, 2014   For my fellow foamers (railfans), I’m putting together this short video series on how to read North American Railroad signals. In this part 1 I cover the foundational 3 light system from which we will understand the rest of the signals.


Railroad Signals, part 2: 1 and 2 head systems – reading and meanings

Published on May 9, 2014  This is part 2 in the series of how to read North American Railroad Signals. See part 1 here:

Now where am I going to get some inexpensive signals that actually work like the prototype?    Thanks for watching, Ian Juby.

Signals aren’t as difficult to read and you can find various railroad rule books with the signals and their meanings illustrated.

See you track side.


Hand, Lantern & Whistle Signals

On the 1:1 foot scale operations are different then what we attempt to do with our toy train and model railroads.    Most of what we do is a imitation of the real deal.    Do you want to add some realism to your operations?

Lost art of railroad hand signals

In this next video let’s go and visit The Sierra Railway for a hands on demonstration on How To use hand signals.   You’ll note most of this goes on  between the hogger and the switch-man.

Did you learn anything?  Which begs the question are you enjoying this website and the videos?   We’d like to know?    Let us know on the “Contact Us” page or in the “Comments Box”.   Thanks in advance.   Send us a hand signal or two.   Not that kind.   Grin!


Realistic Signaling & Radio Chatter

Your going to like this!

After some researching I found this video  where you can watch realistic working signals and hear the radio chatter between the crews and dispatcher.

Railfanning, when sitting trackside, I will have my scanner on listening to the same radio chatter.

REALISTIC Model Railroad Railfanning w/ Radio Chatter & Working Signals

Published on Oct 4, 2014    I have had a lot of requests for some HO scale rail fanning videos. Here’s one a friend and I made a few months ago.

I hope you enjoyed it and thanks for watching, NSmodeler24.

As for me, I’ve set trackside in Dayton, Ohio  listening and watching as the CSX and Norfolk Southern trains make their way through the downtown area.      The radio chatter on my scanner is not so dissimilar to what you hear here.  Well done guys and gals.    Thanks.



Cutting Track With A Dremel Rotary Tool

I found this video and it comes closest to illustrating how I cut rails and track in order to fit them together.    Typically I cut my rail-in, in place… seldom using a vice.    Works great!

Here OO shows us how to cut in a switch, which most hobbyist stubbornly call a turnout.  In England that is what they call a track switching  mechanism.   Here in America…well…it depends on whether you are emulating the Rails or the Engineers from the Engineering Departments.   More on this in another discussion.    First, let’s cut some track.

OOrail.com | How to cut OO/HO gauge flexible track


Published on Feb 29, 2012    This video from oorail.com demonstrates how to cut flexible track. Flexible and Semi-flexible track is made by Hornby, Peco, Atlas and other manufacturers. This video shows how to cut and smooth the flexible track using a Dremel power tool. The video also demonstrates how to install fish plates / rail joiners.  Thanks for watching, OO

Thanks OO for the video.

Fish plates and rail joiners are not synonymous but serve the same function.    Fish plates bolt on to the rails and rail joiners slide under the rail.    If that helps?

There is more to show you.  Tricks of the trade and advise to give.       I will bring you what I consider to be excellent ways and means to use a Dremel Rotary Tool.   While you are waiting and in the mean time.   Don’t hold your breath.  I can’t do CPR from a computer.  Beside a purplish blue tint on your face isn’t very becoming.

Stay tuned.

Have fun!


Dremel Rotary Tool – Review

Here is a review of two Dremel Rotary Tools.    This happens to be one of my favorites to use.   Tops on my priority list.

Dremel Cordless Rotary Tool Model 8200 Review

Published on Dec 13, 2012   Mark Donovan of http://www.HomeAdditionPlus.com reviews the Dremel Cordless Rotary Tool Model 8200 in this video.

Thanks Mark for the review.

Now then we need to see it or other Dremel Tools in action.   Check out these two characters as they review…well…they can tell us all about it.

Dremel Micro 8050 Rotary Tool

Published on Sep. 23, 2014   We unbox and take a look at the Dremel 8050 micro lithium rotary tool. This tool is great for small applications, its small size allows for precise control.

I have this smaller version in a much earlier model and use it to cut track, drill holes for stanchions and wheel sets.     To think of it as a writing pin and handle it the same way.   You can accomplish a lot of tasks that you would normally use a hand tool for.  You know the ones that take forever.    You can accomplish much…….. in seconds.

Still looking for that track cutting video?  Give me time.   Found it!   Go to “Catagories” and click on “Track Laying/Installation.”   It should jump right up.


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